Retinol and Natural Allies: How to Achieve Radiant Skin Without Harsh Ingredients

• 03.04.2024
• 730 views

Retinol and retinoids are powerful ingredients that have become a cornerstone in many skincare routines due to their proven effects on the skin. However, before delving deeper into the world of these magical ingredients, it is important to understand their origin, mode of action, benefits, and potential dangers they carry. Retinoids are also known as biologically active anti-aging molecules. Retinol stimulates fibroblast activity to synthesize collagen fibers, improving skin elasticity (removes degenerated elastin fibers). Fibroblasts are the main producers of extracellular matrix (ECM) components, including collagen, elastin, and hyaluron, which are essential for maintaining proper skin function.

Discovery and Production of Retinol

Chemists were the ones who isolated various vitamins, determined their chemical structure, and developed methods for vitamin synthesis. Paul Karrer described the chemical structure of vitamin A. In 1932, Harry Holmes and Ruth Corbet isolated and crystallized vitamin A in 1937. Methods for synthesizing vitamin A came with the work of David Adriaan van Dorp and Jozef Ferdinand Arens in 1946 and Otto Isler and colleagues in 1947.

Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, has since been thoroughly studied for its numerous skin benefits. It is found in many foods such as green leafy vegetables, legumes, and beans, while cosmetic Retinol is usually obtained from plant sources or synthesized in the laboratory.

Action of Retinol and Retinoids

Retinol does not have a significant biological effect on tissues but becomes active after transformation into more active metabolites, the most important of which is Retinoic acid characterized by multilateral action.

Retinoic acid (RA) occurs in two isomeric forms: the fully transformed form and the 9-cis form, which affects cell proliferation and differentiation by regulating appropriate genes. Retinoids are involved in various biological activities, including cell growth, cell cohesion, immunomodulatory effects, and antitumor functions.

Vitamin A and its derivatives, especially Retinol, are substances that effectively slow down the aging process. Fat-soluble Retinol penetrates through the stratum corneum and slightly penetrates the dermis. When Retinol reaches the keratinocyte, it enters its interior and binds to the appropriate receptor.

There are four groups of receptors with a high affinity for Retinol. Retinol stimulates the cellular activity of keratinocytes, fibroblasts, melanocytes, and Langerhans cells. Retinol interacts with receptors within keratinocytes, stimulating their proliferation, strengthening the epidermal protective function, reducing transepidermal water loss, protecting collagen from degradation, and inhibiting the activity of metalloproteinases responsible for the breakdown of the extracellular matrix. Moreover, it promotes the remodeling of reticular fibers and stimulates angiogenesis in the papillary layer of the dermis.

Since retinoids have an anti-comedogenic effect, they regulate the secretion process within the sebaceous gland ducts. Most importantly, retinoids reduce the activity of enzymes involved in lipogenesis and block the differentiation and cell division of sebocytes. Moreover, they reduce skin discoloration, decrease its pigmentation by about 60%, and contribute to the proper distribution of melanin in the skin.

However, the carrier used to deliver Retinol plays a crucial role in achieving its effectiveness, as Retinol is extremely unstable and easily degrades into biologically inactive forms when exposed to light and air. This may mean that not every cosmetic product on the market claiming to contain Retinol is necessarily effective or well-formulated enough not to harm the skin.

Usage / Pharmacotherapy

They are widely used externally in the treatment of acne, psoriasis, excessive dryness, skin keratosis, and various other hair and nail disorders.

Retinol is known to be a molecule that improves skin texture, dispigmentation, dryness, and fine lines. The optimal concentration for balancing skin irritation and effectiveness has not been established. The concentration of Retinol in a cosmetic product is most often between 0.0015% and 0.3%.

In cosmetics, Retinol is most commonly used in the form of retinyl palmitate, retinal, and β-carotene.

They are used in the pharmacotherapy of diseases such as acne and rosacea, psoriasis, skin cancer, hair follicle inflammation, bacterial etiology, pyoderma, erythematous lupus, and ichthyosis.

The cosmetic industry claims that Retinol and Retinoids stimulate skin cell renewal, help reduce wrinkles, even out skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, and improve skin texture. These claims are based on numerous studies and clinical trials that have confirmed their effectiveness. However, there are also studies that have confirmed their harmfulness.

Proven Harmfulness of Retinol

The irritating properties of vitamin A and its derivatives, as well as their instability, are factors that limit their use in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. Common discomforts of Retinol include sun sensitivity, dryness, redness, peeling, and skin flaking.

Also, pregnant and breastfeeding women should avoid using these ingredients due to potential harmful effects on the fetus.

Long-term Effects on the Skin

Long-term use of Retinol from natural sources and in optimal doses can lead to improved skin texture, reduction of fine lines and wrinkles, reduction of hyperpigmentation, and stimulation of collagen and elastin production, resulting in firmer and younger-looking skin.

Natural Sources of Retinol and Combination with Other Ingredients

Natural sources of retinol include carrots, dark leafy greens like kale and spinach, and plant oils like rosehip and calendula, moringa oil, carrot seed oil, sea buckthorn pulp, wild rose fruit oil, bakuchiol oil, Vigna aconitifolia, and others. These ingredients can be used topically to achieve a similar effect as cosmetic products. For example, we can make a DIY face mask from green leafy vegetables, adding honey and a few drops of one of the mentioned oils. Retinol is best combined with moisturizing ingredients like Aloe Vera.

Plant-based retinols are safe and do not cause (or very rarely) any discomforts of Retinol such as redness, irritation, or skin peeling. Therefore, a gentler plant-based product with Retinol is desirable for all skin types. Research shows that using Aloe Vera gel with Retinol is more effective than using Retinol alone.

Synthetic Retinols make the skin more sensitive to the sun and more prone to burns. Natural plant-based Retinols are better in this regard as they are not UV sensitive.

CBD as a Booster of Retinol and Retinoid Action in the Skin

A study published in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal (January 2022) showed that combining CBD with Retinol can alleviate Retinol irritation and improve skin appearance.

CBD is inherently anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and helps in healing.

The study yielded remarkable results in terms of improved skin quality. Specifically, the results were:

• Reduced visible pores.
• Improved hydration.
• Alleviation of surface skin roughness.
• Reduction of static and dynamic wrinkles.

It was found that CBD counteracts the negative effects of long-term Retinol use (erythema, itching, peeling, and redness), significantly improving treatment outcomes.

CBD activity is an addition to independent mechanisms, including modulation of the human endocannabinoid system, which is associated with anti-aging effects through its role in maintaining skin homeostasis and barrier function, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory action, as well as optimal sebum production.

Pofrishcanna natural cosmetics contains plant sources of Retinol. The formulations are designed to help reverse signs of photoaging, such as wrinkles and loss of firmness, just like Retinol, but without side effects. Additionally, full-spectrum CBD extract enhances our skin's ability to adapt to harmful external environmental factors, improves skin barrier function, and prevents collagen loss.

Retinol in Diet

A diet rich in plant foods containing Retinol can help enhance its effectiveness in the skin. Consuming foods like carrots, spinach, green leafy vegetables, beans, and legumes, melon, zucchini, sweet potatoes, and pumpkin can contribute to skin health from the inside out.

Similar to other leafy green vegetables, many plants with soft stems, such as basil, parsley, and dill, are full of vitamin A, vitamin C, and vitamin K. These nutrients play an important role in our body.

Nutrient Interactions and Retinol

It is believed that zinc deficiency interferes with vitamin A metabolism in several ways. Zinc is needed for the enzyme that converts Retinol to Retinal.

Zinc deficiency results in reduced synthesis of the Retinol-binding protein, which transports Retinol through circulation to peripheral tissues and protects the body from potential Retinol toxicity. Zinc deficiency results in reduced activity of the enzyme that releases Retinol from its storage form, retinyl palmitate in the liver.

Iron deficiency also alters plasma and liver vitamin A levels.

Vitamin A deficiency often coexists with iron deficiency and can exacerbate iron deficiency anemia by altering iron metabolism. Vitamin A supplementation has a beneficial effect on iron deficiency anemia and improves iron nutritional status in children and pregnant women. Caution should be exercised with supplementation as excess vitamin A in the body can cause harmful consequences.

Beta-Carotene Vs Retinol: Importance and Benefits

Beta-carotene is an organic compound that belongs to the carotenoid family. Carotenoids are red, orange, and yellow plant pigments that give various fruits and vegetables their bright natural colors, including carrots, melon, pumpkin, tomatoes, and butternut squash.

There are more than 600 carotenoids, but of these vast numbers, only three: Alpha-carotene, Beta-carotene, and Beta-cryptoxanthin can act as provitamin A and convert to vitamin A or Retinol when they enter the human body. As vitamin A is essential for many bodily functions, both have health benefits. Both are equally important. They are also crucial for a stronger immune response and better vision. Without vitamin A, the human retina cannot function properly.

When comparing Beta-carotene to Retinol, both Beta-carotene and Retinol are different forms of vitamin A and both have health benefits. Both Beta-carotene and Retinol are fat-soluble compounds.

But when it comes to vitamin A supplementation, Beta-carotene represents a safer option because it is not stored in the body and usually poses no risk of overdose. However, it is always best to consult a professional nutritionist or phytotherapist before taking Beta-carotene or Retinol supplements to determine if they are suitable for your specific health condition.

Conclusion:

Retinol and Retinoids are extremely effective ingredients responsible for a healthy and youthful skin appearance. However, it is important to use them carefully and in accordance with expert instructions to avoid possible side effects. Combining cosmetic products with natural sources of Retinol and CBD, along with a healthy, plant-based diet, can help you achieve the desired results and achieve radiant and healthy skin.

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Kristina Šafranko
Certified formulator and producer of natural cosmetics

The content provided is for informational purposes only and is not intended as medical advice. The information provided is sourced from research collected from external sources.